Red Gully - Cairngorms

Today was an absolute cracker. The wind was, as forecast, high and there was a bit of spin-drift but the skies clear. All buttresses were plastered and the Goat Track was a sheet of ice covered in a layer of wind blown snow. The orginal plan for Western Rib was soon shelved and we decided to have a go at Red Gully (II/III) as it was out of the wind.

I had the first pitch, the only pitch with any real climbing in it, which was in alright condition just bordering on III rather than II. There was some ice on the steeper sections, but not enough to keep me completely happy. The gear was good in the side walls and near to where you needed it. Unconsolidated snow covered much of the cracks (plus easier angled ground) and gear did need some excavation. The rest of the gully is typical I/II territory, but good fun all the same. I finished with frozen eyebrows and serious hotaches, but once on the plateau it all seemed worthwhile as the visibility was superb and less wind.

There were plenty of people out today ski-ing and climbing before the predicted thaw which is threatening to strip the place for the weekend.

Time; 5hs