A truely mixed week

My holiday has really started well. On Monday myself and Juan headed into the Ben to do Green Gully (IV,4). Unfortnately another party had the same idea and got to the route ahead of us. The gully is pretty narrow, so due the amount of snow that was lying on the ice we got a fair battering from above. Nothing too bad though. It was a great route and the steep sections were fairly short-lived and protection was okay. Some of the peg belays have seen better days but the ice, when dug out, was great. Less snow would have been better and some freeze-thaw can only improve matters.

Time: 9H

Tuesday saw us on Curved Ridge II/III,3 which was our first route on the Buachaille. Somehow I started up the right hand side of Crowberry Basin and climbed a nice rock chimeny pitch before easier ground and a traverse back across the Basin lead back to the route. The first two pitches were nearly snow free, but the route got more snowy and better the higher up we went. Although nowhere hard, it did seem quite a long route. Again the weather was superb aside from a number of squally snow showers.

Time: 7H

Wednesday's weather was excellent again, so after a quick run up and down the Pap of Glencoe (1h 20 from the Youth Hostel)we decided to go rock climbing in Polldubh, Geln Nevis. Juan's foot wasn't doing too well so I ended up doing some climbing on my own. The routes were polished, but the rock was warm and I can see why this place is popular. Perfect rock slabs set amongst Caledonian pine forst, ringed my snowy peaks. Just a great place to be.

Thursday was a proper Corries day. A thaw was forecast along with 70M and hour gusts, and we got it. The corrie was deserted when we got there for about 9am and even after we got down there were only a few other parties around. Visibility was initially great, but then the wind picked up and the higher up we climbed the worse the snow got. Goat Track Gully (II) was just about in and there was a decent amount of ice on the crux. A lovely short steep corner with superb rock gear just where you need it. Some kind soul had even left some in-situ. Belaying above in the wind-driven spray from the rapidly melting snow was less fun. Al, up from Bristol, lead through and we traversed off on to the Goat Track back to a full breakfast in the Mountain Cafe. A truely Scottish experience.