You win some you lose some.

A tale of two days really. Only 24 hours apart, but miles from each other with regards to conditions and enjoyment factor!

On Thursday I teamed up with Wendy who had not done much Scottish climbing. I had heard that the North West had less snow so less avalanche danger. When we rounded the bend on the Bealach na Ba I wasn't expecting that much less snow! Most of the lines were broken and our first choice of route looked way out. Cue panic. I was meant to be the experienced 'local' and here we were in front of the practically bare cliff of Meall Gorm. A quick look in the guidebook revealed The 6 track Mono Blues - apparently a soft touch grade II further up the cliff. Thankfully, it looked much better. Once in the gully the ice was superb and the snow was much, much better than expected. The only thing lacking were belays and I gratefully smacked in pegs into the sidewalls. In the lean conditions it was a definite II. We came down via the descent gully which was festooned with a rather random plastic pipe attached to rusting metal stanchions. What is was or why it is there I still didn't know. The weather was good, aside from a brief snow shower, so loath to go home we went ice bouldering. Where the 'Master' displayed rather less finesse than his 'Apprentice'.


Friday came along with the flush of success from yesterday instilling a certain sense of confidence. Despite the forecast we decided on Glen Shiel. As always the weather was fantastic until the Cluanie where it decided to hack it down. Rain, interspersed with wet snow, was driven along by a keen wind and the warm temperatures had softened the snow horribly. Following the guide book instructions we headed up over the shoulder of Maoile an t-Searraich. The Allt of the afore-mentioned hill provided some great sport with a couple of 2-3m vertical steps, allowing the driving rain to be forgotten about for a time. Reaching the shoulder we then saw we had come too high for our objective - Enchanted Falls a grade III ice route. A tenuous very steep descent on wet snow and grass dropped us, finally, at the bottom of the route. The first two pitches looked very thin and wet. However, above the falls opened out into a wide cascade of ice bulges. To get to them we had to somehow traverse in. After a pitch of enjoyable grade II ice. I set off on a traverse above some slabs to get to the cascade. All that was required was a few steps down. A combination of cold, wet, a lack of protection and a dawning sense that climbing melting ice in a rainstorm wasn't a wise idea saw me back off. Disappointed with not having done the route, we trudged down hill, calf-deep in slush at some points.

In retrospect all still good fun, but some major learning points for the day - it is much, much hard to jump across streams with a bag stuffed full of wet climbing rope... and don't forget your waterproof trousers.