Conditions East and West!

Yet more good weather! I am sure we are going to pay for it soon , but as long as the weather is good you may as well use it.

Tuesday 30th December saw myself and Kenny heading over to the Ben following reports of okay climbing conditions. I had something easier in mind than Thompson Route IV,4, but Kenny was keen and as long as he led the hard pitches I didn't mind. In fact it was a route I had been contemplating in a kind of it-would-be-nice-to-have-done-that . The narrow chimneys were well iced up, but the rock was dry allowing good rock gear placements. Embarrassingly I dropped my crampon from half-way up the first pitch. Miraculously, it stopped only 100m down on it's way to the CIC hut. I hopped precariously down No 3 Gully to collect it, but I was soon back up to the first belay. The first two pitches were nicely sustained and after an easier pitch (my first lead for ages), we got on to No 3 Gully Buttress which was rather bare.

Topping out to glorious sunshine again! The tourist track down was icy and tiresome and on reflection we should have dropped back down No 4. However, the lure of the sun and the views was too great on the day.

On the last day on 2008 I headed in with Juan to the 'gorms and climbed Spiral Gully with the direct finish (which I would really recommend) at III. It was extremely busy in the corrie, but the routes are holding up well. The footsteps in the gullies certainly make everything a wee bit easier than normal. Once again the skies were blue and there was no wind. A very nice way to round off the year!

With cold conditions set to last, the climbing will stay for a while yet. The paths are really icing up though : (.