North East Buttress - Ben Nevis

NE buttress (IV,4) is the most obvious of the ridges that are thrown down from Ben Nevis on the eastern side. It was first climbed in 1895 and a tale of a subsequent ascent also in 1895 by Tough and Brown in horrendous weather makes a fine read. Our (Kenny had been persuaded to take a day off work too) journey from Inverness was much less epic, and less memorable, but I suppose we only had one day off work. Notwithstanding the fact that they don't make mountaineers like they used to.

Snow was lying from near the bottom car-park, but it was only until we reached the base of the route that we had to break trail. A long traverse above the First Pinnacle from the left-hand side got us on to the ridge proper, where the real climbing began. Deep drifts lay on the easier angled sections. In contrast, ice was plastered into all of the cracks and gullies. Great for climbing on and in the lower half thick enough for screws. Expecting a rocky ridge we had nearly neglected to bring along any ice-specific protection. The three rather blunt screws we had were put into use on almost every pitch.

After a series of excellent steep ice gullies the snow field was reached. An energy-sapping slog up waste deep powder ensued before belaying under an overhanging wall. From now on it all got a touch harder as the ice thinned and the protection more spaced. Even after cleaning, the cracks were verglassed and flared. At one point I got myself totally commited about 15m above any gear before I could make an uncomfortable traverse into a niche where I found myself a block to wrap a sling around. A couple of pitches further on I somehow missed out the 'inescapable' Man-trap and ended up on the Tough-Brown Variant. Forty foot corner was unprotectable, although ice hooks may have helped, but gave fine climbing.

Finally, we topped out to a glorious sunset, relieved and elated to have finished the route about 5hs after starting. The climb was excellent, although totally different to what we expected. The length of the route and the spaced nature of the belay and runner placements (under the conditions we experienced I hasten to add) made it a commiting outing of a sustained nature with no real crux standing out in my memory.

Time: 11hs